Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Replaced the reversing lights with LED versions- sooo much better!
Picked up my calipers from a friend who had welded some 13mm nuts to the spring plate retaining screws and managed to get all the screws out without any shearing off
Restored & cleaned all the threads and test fitted the replacement spring plate screws (stainless).
Managed to free off all the bleed nipples without any stripped threads and also got the pistons wound back into the calipers.

Off to the aqua blasters & then the powder coaters on Thursday. The big question is what colour? I’ve heard that red is worth 10HP and yellow 25! However I’m quite tempted to keep it looking as stock as possible and go for black........

Ordered some Pirelli Sottozeros for a spare set of Cup narrow spokes, I was a bit dissappointed with the Vredestein wimter tyres I have used for the past 2 winters. The Advan track day tyres have been brilliant, surprisingly good in the wet but with the forecast for a cold wet winter I don't fancy trying their slush performance.

Taking mine for an MOT tomorrow

Passed the MOT ok but have two advisories one for each of the two front wheel bearings which talk about "Front wheel bearing has slight play nearside; and another ditto for offside."

The mechanic says ;
"It is not a problem since this is a low mileage car and these are taper roller bearings, but before I just tighten them up a bit I would like to check the condition of the bearings", so I have booked the car in for this to be done.

I am used to these advisories because my 289 Replica Cobra has MGB hubs with taper roller bearings and it always gets these advisories from a different tester at the same garage. I am much more familiar with the MG set up than I am with the Porsche arrangement. I have always ignored the advisories on the Cobra because I know the danger of overtightening the bearings on MG hubs.

Anybody like to comment on the Porsche set up?

regards,

David

Exactly the same setup as the MGB really

You tighten the nut on the spindle till you can feel some resistance to moving the washer under the nut around, as they are alloy hubs the swell more with heat than steel ones

Glad you got through the MoT Largie... It's always a relief

Re bearings, one of the 924's had a slight issue at Anglesey at the weekend that a slight nip up helped to sort....

A spare couple of hours today and I managed to install my replacement Crankshaft Position Sensor... What a pita that is to get to...

The top bolt is partially covered by the cam cover so that had to come off....


Bottom bolt needed a long round headed Allen socket to get it out....




Some grease held the bolt onto the Allen socket just long enough to locate it in the hole...


Had a cursory check of the cam chain and cam sprockets whilst I was in there


Downside is she still won't start although the battery was a bit weak so some charge needed to check it properly.... Wish me luck

That’s the cam sensor it will not stop the car from starting, the crank sensor is at the rear of the engine and pokes through the bell housing to sense the flywheel

And if you thought the cam sensor was a pain your in for even more fun

+1 on what Waylander just said.

You have replaced the Hall Sensor (camshaft position sensor) - when I was diagnosing intermittent poor running on mine it made do difference whether it was connected or not.

As part of a clutch change we changed the crank sensor - (on the top of the bell housing but barely accessible from the engine bay) and that fixed all the poor running issues completely.

I did my crank sensor not too long ago but had the inlet manifold and master cylinder off. I replaced the o-rings on the air/oil seperator (oil filler tube) and vac lines as well . Yes it's a fiddle but one of those jobs we have to do with a car this age car runs and starts much better. Fuel pump was also changed as the return valve wasn't holding pressure. The crank sensor tested ok but it was definately faulty.

Let’s try this again- took too long typing this up & lost it all
So, yesterday (Sat) I went back to a friends garage with the aim of getting the pistons out of the calipers that are being refurbed. The powder coaters had agreed to do the job after looking at them but said they wanted the dust seals & pistons out.
With the exception of a piston in each of the front calipers, all of the others, popped out nice and easy. With the dust seals missing from the two non movers, corrosion had done its best to lock them in place and fairly drastic measures were employed to get the s*ds out!

Today’s job will be to remove the remaining dust seals as although a couple popped out nice and easily, the buggeration factor kicked in and the others split in two- one piece staying in the piston groove and the other in the calipers. Despite the attentions of a proper seal pick tool, the latter are refusing to be evicted for the time being.........

Did you use compressed air to get the pistons out?

[/quote]

Did you use compressed air to get the pistons out?[/quote]

Yes, all apart from the aforementioned stuck pistons. Those required far more drastic treatment!

If anyone reading this hasn’t given any thought to the calipers for a while, may I suggest that you take a look and give them at least a good clean- you may be surprised at what you find!

Cheers guys I meant Camshaft.... I do have a Crankshaft Position Sensor as well to install... but given the plug on the Camshaft Sensor was split I wanted to see if that was the issue or not... evidently its not...

Thanks for the info on how to get to the Crank Sensor - I'll get onto that this week although I am getting a reading on the tacho now when cranking so Crank Sensor could be OK... I'll probably swap it out given I have the new one anyway...

So I had a little time to start the crankshaft sensor... Pita doesn't begin to describe there is no room whatsoever to get in there

Still, methodical approach will see it done... eventually

Prepared and ready


A long socket and extension gets to it dead easy but chickens and eggs meant my carelessness knocked the bolt off the end of my hex driver dropping into the hole above the flywheel seemingly lost forever a fortunate retrieval with a long magnetic tool fished it out though




Bracket off that holds the electrical connection....


Cable loops around on this bracket... Rubber mount simply pulls off


Lesson learned for reinstalltion... Duct tape covering those holes up! The sensor should now just pull clear but it's stuck fast... It is fixed in another housing... You can just see one if the two horizontal bolts holding this housing in... Perhaps that'll come off easier but will have to wait as its raining and I'm a softie that likes to be dry

I did warn you