Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

ECU pin numbers would be useful, thanks.
Does that bypass the relay?

Nope the relay powers the system

Go to
www.pdlibrary.co.uk

In the how to section

Type 2 abs

Okay, ta.

Saved the pdf.

BTW, I like the submission about making your own HT leads.

Yup that’s why I have nice blue ones,

I try to make up docs of things I do, to help others out

At £200 for a set of leads........

Are you the author?

I can get Bosch leads for £72. Different if I had a Turbo or S2.

Author / site owner.

indeed, the S2 is one type, the 968 is another type, 8v are another, and turbo another

A set from Porsche these days is over £300 for a 968!

My ABS light came on with the ignition when I started getting it back on the road last summer, my alternator was poorly which was leading to a low voltage with the engine running which is supposedly enough to trip the ABS light. Also upon checking the ABS control unit (brain) I found the cable hadn't been fitted properly following the bodywork and paint I'd had done. After reattaching the cable and fitting a reconditioned alternator the light went away.

Cheers for that ^ heads up.

I have poor running conditions. Cuts out after 5 mins.
Decided that I would check the often overlooked internal tank filter.
(A new fuel filter is on the way).
It was clean but whilst the cage was still intact, there was no mesh.
So ordered a new one. Another wait.

Given the post above, I wonder of the 2 things are connected - poor running due to poor alternator output and weak current so that the ABS is not working properly.
Between the internal and external filter change, there really is nothing left.
Coil is new. AFM is a recently acquired exchange unit and was working fine on the old engine. I have checked for vacuum leaks, it's all 'solid'. AAV was swapped out - the one on the engine definitely wasn't working. Fuel pump is new. All fuel pipes are new(ish). Plugs, dizzy and leads are fine. I have at least 2 spare DME relay's to swap out for comparison. ALL earth points have been cleaned up. Every electrical connector I came across got a decent squirt of electrical contact cleaner. I even changed some of the weaker metal U clamps (for want of a better word) on the connectors. Injectors were recently refurbished. Resistance of both c'shaft and ref. sensors are are within normal range. There's nothing to foul the ends because it's all clean as a whistle.

I have a spare alternator but will test output first, if I can get it to run long enough.

Are you suffering with low voltage?

Put a new regulator in the alternator, have you got the engine earth strap connected, if the battery get below 11.5v all sorts of odd things start to happen,

I just assumed you had a fully charged battery

I do not know if I am suffering from a low voltage but it's now a consideration.
Battery is new.
Engine earth strap is all shiny and connected.

There was a helluva squeal from the alternator belt on start up. This could be because of high load or that the alternator is not capable of producing the current that it ought to.

High load belt slack, 10mm deflection in the middle of the belt

If you need an ABS relay for testing I can send you one, I have a spare

With the PIN numbers you can test each wheel to make sure you dont have an open circuit on any of the wheels

You did put all three cables on the 13mm nut on the starter and the little one on the 10mm

Up by the black vac tank and wiper motor is the big red power feed for the abs, check that that is nice and clean, it’s also the get you out of trouble battery boost connection

If I think of anything else

Noted ^.

I have not touched the ABS yet.
First priority is to get it running smoothly and test alternator output etc. This will only happen when I get the new internal mesh fuel filter.
ABS was fine before the transplant, so I have no reason to suspect the relay yet.



Yes.

I changed the regulator on my old alternator and it didn't help - I think it was most probably an issue with the rectifier diodes (alternator needs dismantling to diagnose and replace).

Now on the voltage gauge in the dash it sits bang on 14v with the engine running (not as accurate as a handheld meter).

Porsche workshop manual tightness for the belt is bloody tight as waylander says minimal deflection (10mm) otherwise it will squeal especially on a damp morning. But not so tight as it wears out the pulley bearing...

First time I changed the belts & tensioners on my car it made a racket when I started it. Thought I'd got something wrong, turned out the alternator belt wasn't tight enough .