Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Mate, there must be another tyre brand out there that will do the job (as long as you avoid those acursed pirellis !)

Hi everyone,

DAY FIVE

I think the phrase is "the despair I can stand it's the hope".

I agree, unfortunately I've hit my first major snag. The release lever shaft is stuck solid, even a slide hammer couldn't move it. So I thought I'd unbolt the rest of the cover and see if I could prise it off but the guide sleeve prevents this. If anyone has a good idea on to remove the release lever shaft I'd really appreciate it.
Also the speed sensor that I couldn't move on day one came back to haunt me. I thought if I unpluged it, it would come away with the cover, but they go through a seperate holder bolted to the engine. So that had to come off as well.


I think a new clutch will do more for your gear changes then a new gearbox mount but It would be interesting to compare. Mine looks ok if a bit rusty, I'll just clean It up.
I work on the railway so I travel free which in my current position is just as well!

All the best,

Andy

Stick with it mate! the release lever is a pain, if you can move it a couple of mm tap it back in with a bit of WD40 on then have another ago. It SLOWLY moves further and further each time. You have my sympathy!

Rich

Hi everyone,

DAY SIX

I GOT IT OUT! (the release lever shaft that is, ahem). What I did in the end was to make sure the slide hammer was firmly attached and in line with the bolt (which meant jacking the car up higher), then use a heat gun on the cover, then five or six whacks later and it was out. So that meant I could get the cover off, couldn't I? well no actually, somehow I'd managed to miss out one of the steps and not taken the gearbox mount off. It's held in by two 17mm bolts and has the fuel filter hanging off it. For the ff I just undid the strap and let it hang, but one of the 17mm bolts was badly rusted and quickly rounded off. After having no success with molegrips I hammered a 16mm socket on the bolt and this worked brilliantly. Actually this was my first rounded off bolt, so I think in this respect I've got off lightly. Now I could move the TT back, take off the cover and finally reveal THE CLUTCH.
This, I'm afraid, is where I'm going to have to leave it for the time being as there's no chance of me getting it back together again to start work on sunday and I think I deserve a day off!
I've got time off over next weekend so I'll pick it up then.

Now where's that bike.....

All the best

Andy

Hi Andy,

Good going on the clutch change - my engine was on the bench when I did mine and, even then, the pivot shaft took a fair few whacks with a slide hammer (£15 well spent at Machine Mart!!!). I feel for you lying on your back with only 2 x axle stands...

I saw a good tip on Rennlist the other day about the Reference/Speed Sensors. If you cut a notch out of the clutch housing, the set-up is a hundred times easier - check out the photo right at the bottom, on the left, of this webpage: http://www.arnnworx.com/sensor_tool.htm

HTHs, and don't forget to replace the rear oil seal and the bearing in the crank that supports the torque tube shaft!

Hi everyone,

First of all, thanks starboard for that last post cutting a notch in the cover should come under the "why didn't they do that in the first place?" column. But more importantly I hadn't realised the sensor holder was adjustable, so you've saved me alot of grief there, thanks. The sensors seem to be giving me the most problems, even with the holder off and the sensor still in it, I had to use a rubber mallet to hammer it out and I've also split the insulation on it. I had to go to my local OPC to pick up a few bits, bolts, gaskets etc and asked them how much a new sensor would be, there £135 so I hope I haven't stuffed it. while we're on the subject of prices I was going to get two new washers for the gearbox mount bolts they were £5 each .
Anyway, I've found a few hours here and there this week to carry on and I've actually changed the clutch, probably the easiest part of the whole procedure. The clutch I took out was absolutely knackered! One of the rubber doughnuts had completely disintigrated. I'll post some pictures when I take some, its astonishing it was still working!
I've also got the rear cover back on, which is a bit of a fiddle, holding the release lever in place while trying to get the cover on. Tomorrow I'll try and get the TT back in then I'll definately feel that I'm on the home straight.

All the best,

Andy

Hi Andy,

Hats off to you mate, what a mission you on mine has just turned 120k and i use it for work most day's...in the couple of weeks i've noticed a judder from cold initially when i pull a way!!...be interested to hear how yours developed a problem and when you are finished.. a look at the pic's of clutch ..what's this rubber donut set up ??

Good luck with the rest of the job....can you send me a pic of the proximity sensor with some dimensions, i work for a motorsport company and we use bosch & magneti marelli sensors on the cars, i might be able to help you with areplacement.

Cheers

Derrick

Genuine Porsche Crank sensor is £35 from Lindsey Racing. Say £50 with VAT etc. Part no' Code: 944-606-115-00

Which one is it out of these two ?

Hi everyone,

Below, as promised pics of the old clutch, as you can see one of the rubber discs has totally disintegrated and at the back the three lugs that were keeping me mobile. This is what makes the clunk noise as the lugs go back and forth. The shiny bits are where they hit, I expect when the shiny bits meet it's game over, so it was lucky I didn't wait any longer!
Also there is the pesky sensor thats been giving me so much grief. Thanks Derrick for the kind offer but today a pair came up on ebay so i bought them for thirty quid! and thanks J.J. for the info on Lindsey racing. I used them recently to get a vacuum kit, good company.
Well yesterday I only commited myself to putting in the Torque tube today because I thought it would be a hell of a job and I was right! First of all I got shift tube caught underneath the TT while trying to turn it which meant having to put the TT in and out of the back of the engine to free it. Then when I managed to get it in it wouldn't go the final inch (where it gets to the pilot bearing). After trying various things like jacking the engine to different positions and just plain hammering it, it didn't budge. So desparation being the mother of invention I held on to the spare wheel and put my feet on the TT, pushed and pop in it went! phew. Flushed with that success I tried to put the slave cylinder in and... its leaking, oh well, I've got one on order should be here Tuesday. But all in all I can definately see the finishing line now so for the time being I'll busy myself treating a few rust patches around the rear inner sills.

All the best,

Andy

Well done Andy. It's really useful you posting all this. e.g. Now I know to order a new slave cylinder at the same time. Makes sence to change it while your in there. All the best with the rest of the job.

Good effort there mate, well done.... good shots of the clutch.
Let us know how the drive feels when you finished.

Cheers
Derrick

is your new clutch the same as the old one in the way that it has the central rubber donut, or has the design changed on your new clutch ?

I believe all new clutches are turbo spec as in spring centred, even for non-Turbo cars.

so if they are all the same spec why the price differences