Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

I can only suggest a bar or tube and place it at various places on your engine and the other end to your ear.
I have heard noises like that over the years from a variety of engines and the faults have been loose cam chains to loose plugs and even a blown exhaust gasket sounds like a tap.

However I think the sound of your engine seems to be tappety so I would suspect a cam related problem........good luck.

thanks for the replies pink piggy
so today i started her up no rattle/knock like it did yesterday but it died within 5 mins googled how to test coil check 12v on + think my digital multi meter is not low enough to check ohms ? as most posts say using analog ??
put timing light on lead coming out of coil an it flashes once when turning ignition on also put on plug lead same
my rev counter has never worked from when i purchased the car but i assume its the clock itself as car was running fine till two weeks ago

i have been using the search on here and on one post similar thread someone mentions swapping leads over on sensor
http://forums.tipec.net/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=16607&hilit=no+spark
checking sensors again sunday while it was running were
dg speed 957 ohms
bg ref mark 156 ohms although its low it was running
same ohms when it cut out later is it ok to swap and see if my rev counter works ? will car run on just one sensor and has any one on here fitted http://www.arnnworx.com/sensors.htm
thanks for any replies trying to run a 944 on morris minor money lol

little update after digging out my old oscilloscope
speed sensor


ref sensor


so i am hoping

still trying to get to bottom of this
fitted pressure gauge on rail

check using clarks and porsche w/shop 2.5 bar going to 2 bar when running rising if i take off vacuum pipe
going over 4 bar if i clamp shut return on fuel pressure regulator, book says replace if over 4 bar fitted unknown seconhand one shuts down even if i take off an injector plug

i fitted two new crank sensors after not reading properly and thinking i should of had a sawtooth on both and while trying to get out had to take off holder in the end and drill and hammer them out but knew by that time i had made an error pulse meaning pulse oh well fitted and recheckd with scope
checked throttle switch ok with help of wife ? which ones the throttle she drives ???
took off air filter and pushed open flap on air flow sensor checked readings ok
checked ohms on temp switch 330 ohms if i remember
voltage at coil but no spark
timing light will flash once when turning on ignition
took of dizzy cap and cleaned rotor arm and cap
re cleaned grounds by crank sensors and bulhead
put some more petrol in and took off cap encase blocked it would run for the odd min or two but this week i cant get it to fire up ? now been outside house for two months clutch peddle to floor tyres going flat
video of her running then dying here
http://s573.photobucket.com/user/campervan06/media/porsche%20944/MOV00586_zpsa9f65dd7.mp4.html
checked the grounds on wire for dme and volts ect ect clarks and work shop
any ideas or suggestions more than welcome as i am trying to fault find as apposed to throwing new parts at her as my pockets are empty
ps think iv move some of my early pics

I cant help you, but I wanted to offer a little encouragement. I suspect that the reason that your thread is lacking many helpful replies is due to your technical hands-on ability being higher than most other forum members.


Simon

lol
thanks Simon at this rate i will have a morris minor that i have had for 13+ years up and running at least its plugs points and welding
lol
http://morrisminorowners.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=5543

yesterday i took out fuel fuse and re checked crank sensors using scope to make shure they were putting out signal all ok
checked for spark at plug using timing light no spark
spark at coil to cap
today put timing light on coil to cap lead
spark tester on plug checked voltage to coil again 12v on both terminals
put fuse back in for pump
no spark at either coil or plug
fuel 2.5 barr would drop to 2 if it runs
done dme relay bypass again pump run no spark
12 volts on injector
check pin 4 on dme for 12 volts from ignition cranking over wasent 12 think it was 10 or 11 im cracking up lol
then give up as i couldn't find the rest of volts and grounds pin assignment on my phone
ps
any one know if i can check the output on pins 21 and 11 ?? using a scope or multi meter ? for my tacho i would love to get it working or at least know its def the clock itself ?? i could even check for taco bounce lol

I once had this same problem with a Dolomite Sprint (here I go again )
Several professionals had tried to start it when it broke down in Exeter and when I got the sod home I took the dizzy out and spun the spindle and promptly got a shock because the rotor arm was internally cracked and the electrically was shorting down the central spindle.

The electricity has got to go somewhere.

That could be ruled out using plug lights, without risking the DME by earthing them through the head or the body. Im presuming that the engine is earthed?

yep to be shure today i ran a ground from battery to engine and tried
again no spark from coil
any body know how to check a dme ??

so going back to base
check fuel rate and delivery ref clarkshttp://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-04.htm
pressure while doing test was just under 2.5 this is normally 2.5 poss due to being a hose and not going back to tank ?
so def fuel pump side working ??

also yesterday had another look at dme using my old magnifier glass these old tv repair tools are coming in handy pity i dident learn how to read wiring diagrams

rechecked pins 8-27 25-26 using my little flasher light again
there was no pulse on 8-27 speed ref so rechecked ohms found out i had not put wire back properly when cleaning earth last week
so with that back on she fired and died done a quick compression test while i was checking plug 1 see if it was wet plug dry and at least there is compression as i was reading a similar thread where his car had no compression after a no start
was going down while i took photo as i had not tightened it up i hope ?? checked plug 2 and compression tested that as well

after reading this thread on 944
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/forum/ ... 228;start=
and turning over car no start again,
checked 12 volt on both terminals on inj wire plug so took them all off and checked them all, all pins 12 volts
so took of a plug which looks like they were attached to at bulkhead under a plastic cover and started doing a continuity test on both plus and minus and the pins on the plug side pin no 2 ? no other pin had continuity either on plus or minus only pin 2
got wife to give me hand so i could waggle wires ect but by the time she came out continuity all of a sudden stopped on minus side i think very small + & - on injector wire plug and i don't put my glasses on.
So put earth lead and wires ect back on and she fired up for two seconds then stopped
puled it all apart again 12 volts on both and continuity on both as well to pin 2 got wife to check i was not going mad (due to age )
and same again so back together for the 2 sec start
Obviously i am assuming there is either a short or break or bad earth or something else attached too this part of wiring or the dme as at least now i know it will start if the volts are only on one female of the injector wiring plug ?
plug here pin 2
i also need to re check the wire on speed ref sensor as i pulled it all apart yesterday looking for a short and earth shield ? looks rather rough

so after 2 months of various test ect bought a ecu/ dme from emc saltley banged it in and car ran till i turned it of some 1/2 hr later last saturday now i did phone up on first month of breaking down but i wanted to test everything first should of just got it then lol
so today i put a new clutch slave in after pricing up seals coming in at £30 after vat and postage ; resealed my master cylinder day before using seals off ebay £7 waiting to how long they last ? see if they were the right size or if i fitted correctly as they were different from the ones i took out .
Hint if your working on your master cylinder leave the push rod on the pedal and just undo the two nuts on master and remove leaving rod in place , i bled it using the open the slave nipple and letting gravity do the rest system as said on here i think ,tighten nipple pump clutch with hand pulling up and down on pedal then opened nipple again with help from wife to keep fluid topped up .
Then quick road test and got some petrol so when i get a min i will put old ecu back in just to be sure to be sure

so after running to where i work 14 mile away to see if i could use it to get to work , then to my mates house then home car ran ok all tho it was what i assume is hunting at tick over (getting faster no taco ) and a couple of gremlins no speedometer and gauges at one point prob bad earth through standing.
so fitted old ecu this weekend
you can guess the rest ????
ran fine took her on a 30 mile round trip up to mates garage saturday for four new tyres just cheep and cheerful then stuck in villa slow moving traffic so think shes staying on as fan kicked in a few times
then got some power steering fluid off euro carspares ebay shop £19.19 for 5 ltr and picked up within the hr phoned them out of interest couldn't come close and £30 on web site
so always pays to shop around
as i havent sorted my leak yet and was just going to halfords
so must be i assume a short somewhere i think i may of had the fuse box holder half out resting on a bit of wood trying to fix my indicator wire which i thought i had repaired but probably done something while pulling at wires ect over the last 2 months .