Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

Hi Fife

All the above is correct but there is more....

Lets take it as you put it....

0% in first ...fine

50HP IN SECOND.... fine but you dont get 50 in one hit...the Maxx will program it to the 5 steps I said about...soooooo...in second you would for example go from 0% as the first step , then say 20% as the second step and 40% as the third step etc etc....

So in second gear you would have 50 hp in total but in small SMOOTH steps...and all of those 5 steps you can also set a time with...say 1/2 second...for each step....so to do all 5 steps in second would take 2.5 seconds...or any other time amount you decided....

The total effect of all this is a TOTALLY smooth amount of extra power...

Then the same in 3rd, 4th, 5th etc etc...

As its very smooth your clutch should be fine.....

And as a 944 is basically half of a 928 engine, that will be fine as well...

I run a LOT more Nitrous than you ever will and my engine has had no problems at all...
Price is dependent on which controller you use....you CAN do it without but I WOULD advise you to have one for smoothness and control...

Sign up on the Wizards of Nos forum (top of the main page) http://www.noswizard.com/

I am a Moderator there and any questions you have will be answered either by myself or Trev Langfield (owner of Wizards) and the foremost Nitrous expert in the World...

Nitrous use depends on how often you use the power, but on say 150 shot on the road you would probably only run it for maybe 7 to 10 seconds a time.... (its all you need to beat almost anyone) and probably around 15 to 25 goes from an 11 lb bottle.... my bottles are twin 15 lb but I use a little more than 150 hp lol

All the best Brett

There are plenty of ways to reduce the lag on a 2.5 Turbo: if retaining the standard turbocharger you can go a long way with a decat pipe, a good remap and a dual port wastegate. If you have deep enough pockets for a new turbo charger fit a modern low-inertial ballraced one. If you change capacity to a 3.0 or larger (you can go out to 3.4) you will not suffer any significant lag on the road until you are looking for well over 400 bhp. Extra capacity does wonders for spinning up the turbo.


It will do what Barry's does: 350 lb/ft and 300 bhp with no discernable lag and a mountainous torque curve. Barry, who knows more about these cars than the factory these days, reckons that the stock S2 block is only really good for about 350 lb ft, and with his current car optimised for tractable everyday road use and the top of hte rev range not being a priority, that means about 300 bhp, but with a huge area under the power curve. Obviously if you move that same amount of peak torque up the rev range you can have more power: Barry's next car is, I believe, aiming for about 450 to 500 bhp.

However, to turbocharge _any_ S2 you will need to change the pistons to reduce the compression, and you will be changing the head for an 8V one anyway. If yo uwant something cheap and cheerful it may well be that nitrous is going to be better for you than turbocharging.

Nitrous is not cheap & cheerful. Horse power is horsepower & thats all that counts. Nitrous is often looked down on as a method of tuning. Maybe because it's too good. But pound for pound nothing comes close. It also has a poor reputation for destroying engines based on the early systems. These problems have been completely eliminated with the current range of computer controllers. You do have to refill the bottle. But you have to fill you petrol tank so whats the difference? I used to run methanol mix in a vauxall nova. It worked.
How much will a new 3 litre turbo cost. Assuming the S2 has a fit engine does it make sense to scrap it?

Well, it's got to be a lot cheaper than building a proper 3.0 Turbo (basically a 968 Turbo S engine). Depends how much of the labour you are capable of doing yourself, but building a reliable 3 litre turbo properly will cost several thousand pounds, starting from an S2. You will need a donor late Turbo for the ancillaries and a 2.7 Lux head, a custom remap, modified pistons, new injectors, FPR, big clutch, etc etc. Obviously makes no sense to do it at all without a complete bottom end rebuild.

Makes a lot more sense, economically, to start with a late Turbo and find a cheap S2 with rotten sills and floor to take the bottom end out of, really. Then the only difficult bit to find is a 2.7 head.

Had reply from WON (wizards of Noz) and for a superb Comp controlled progressive +125bhp system approx £1600. which for a x 2 is not bad and should be totally usable on the road. this includes fitting.

will explore Turbo route as well but I guess x 3 on costs.