Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

All I am waiting for is a 30 x 48...
There may be post. Must have a look.

What’s one of those

Anyway just had a call fro East London Porsche, parts dept is open from Monday

On the plus side:

Running, no leaks.

On the downside:

Really rough.

What can you can add to my checklist?:

AFM connection
Vacuum lines (J Pipe is new)
Firing on all cylinders
Plugs
Plug leads

The engine is not vibrating, which suggest that the balance shafts are 'indexed' properly.

All the UHT paint stunk initially. Bit of smoke from the engine which cleared quite quickly.

No sure I get really rough and not vibrating in the same sentence

Is it misfiring?
Have you double checked the cam belt timing?

Balance being out does not really affect the running, and only really get the motor vibrating at about 2500-3000 depending on which shaft and how many teeth

Yes. TDC on cam aligned with cowling, TDC on flywheel through bell housing - I marked the line with red nail varnish.

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Yes. TDC on cam aligned with cowling, TDC on flywheel through bell housing - I marked the line with red nail varnish.[/quote]

So does SWMBO know where her Guards red nail varnish has gone or has it mysteriously ‘disappeared’?!

Bought specifically for the purposes of timing marks/indentations etc.

Honest.

Ok mandy we believe you

I'm only 'Mandy' at the weekends.

I think I need to measure fuel pressure at the rail...
I know it's a new pump but there's always clogged filters.

I’d have just nicked the tipp-ex

Doesn't stay through, does it?

I am now convinced that the rough idle is a vacuum issue. I've battled all day. Might just walk away from it for a few days and re-charge the (my) batteries.
Once the rail was bled properly, the idle was less erratic and now if I pull on the throttle body, it's reasonably smooth. This suggests that there is sufficient vacuum under a bit of load but not sufficient for idle.
Where, I just don't know. All the vacuum layouts have variations for n/a's, turbo's, 16v, S2's etc.

Illustration 201-05, item 21 - 'Thermo valve'. What exactly is it's role?
On mine, one half is capped off with a little orangy red bung. The other, I presume, goes into a T which is connected to the main line that has the blue/black valve? Or am I missing something?

I removed the inlet manifold and checked the inlet manifold gaskets. I also checked all the rubber piping and vacuum lines.

fed up.

Less fed up.

Car is running. A little lumpy but there's a few things to do.
Turned out that the AAV was not functioning. I had a spare.
Starts nicely.
Power steering doesn't leak!! That went smoothly (oddly).

A few niggles:
ABS light is on (that'll be fun). Bad earth? That I find odd because I cleaned all connections up. I mean, ALL of them.
2nd gear is a little tricky to get into - I need to muck around with the Precision shift/bleed clutch again. Mate is coming over to help. Is it 2m from drivers seat to the back end of the car?!
Need to sort tracking.
Headlight adjuster screws are on way. Can you set the pattern on the garage wall to MOT standard?

The ABS is a closed circuit, no earths

When does the light come on, and stay on, with ignition or with motion?

Ignition on.

No earths? So what are the earth leads at the hubs?

They are for the brake pad wear sensors

I did a huge check list sheet for abs when mine was not working,

I can provide you with the ecu pin outs,

The light on with ignition can be the abs relay not kicking in

If it’s the wheel sensors the light would come on when you go over 5kph

Did you make sure you plugged in the wheel sensors in the right holes in the round connectors, as the system is failing the preflight check