Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

For a while I've had a couple of issues with my S2. On start up, after the car had sat for a while the clutch pedal would stick to the floor and I'd have to pull it back up. This only happened when cold and never occurred when driving the car.

It also has a small fluid leak. At first I thought it was oil, but the level never seemed to drop. I thought maybe power steering fluid, but no not that either. There was no obvious sign of brake fluid dropping so I figured I'd get it looked at when next serviced.

Now all of a sudden the occasional clutch pedal sticking changed to sticking quite a lot, and then the clutch hardly working at all. After reading online I now suspect the leak is in the clutch system. The odd thing was that I couldn't see that the fluid had dropped. Is this normal if the slave cylinder has a leak?

Whilst looking into this I noticed a slightly odd thing about my car. According to the manual both the brakes and clutch use the same fluid reservoir but my car seems to have a separate pot on the driver's side. The large reservoir on the passenger side does not have a tube coming from the side of it, instead it is capped off. Google image search reveals a few others like this. Does anyone know if this is something they did in the factory or would it be an alteration made later?

Anyway, this means it is unlikely I'll be taking the car out as planned to the SYNN meet on Sunday (I'll be taking the boring car instead). Any suggestions/help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

It's just the difference between LHD and RHD cars (I'm assuming yours is RHD).

Ah, that makes sense. Wonder why they didn't update the manual...

Does it affect the bleeding process? Just wondering if it makes it easier, or if the car doesn't need raising up at the back. Probably unlikely to do it myself, but still interested to know.

Just replaced the slave on mine and it's not easy. The starter motor has to be removed and then bleeding it is a pain. Only safe do do it with battery disconnected as it's too easy to short out the starter terminal with your spanner. I found the best way was to use a pressure bleeder, open the bleed nipple and push the pedal to the floor where it will stick. Tighten the bleed nipple when the bubbles have gone and pull up the clutch pedal. I have made up a remote bleeder so I don't have to grovel under the car again. The clutch was very snatchy in operation before but is very smooth now. The threads on the bleed nipple will allow air back into the system so the pump the pedal method is hit and miss and you need two people.

Sorted. It turned out to be the master cylinder that had gone and has been replaced. Apparently the slave cylinder looked fairly new, so although he would have normally suggested do both, the mechanic decided that it didn't need changing.

Turned out a fuel hose had deteriorated quite badly and has been changed. So good job it went in with the clutch or could have had a much bigger problem.

Well done mate, sounds like good news

Thanks Craig. And it wasn't too painful after all, £248 all together. Clutch pedal so much easier to use now too.

I've just have slave and master replaced on one of mine, as they were both of similar vintage, i thought it wise to do both at the same time.

Hi Jason. It seems to be a fairly common problem. I think I'm gradually working my way through all the common problems with my car. It was great to get it back though. I took it for a blast down some B roads on Sunday, was driving really well and was great fun.