Porsche Enthusiasts Club Forum

TPS not working on WoT and I suspect it is occasionally sticking in idle so what a shock to find the cost of a new replacement Bosch unit. I've ordered a Hella one from Design 911 and found a used on ebay. Crazy money for such a simple component.

I believe the turbo TPS is the same part number as a volvo part =cheaper . I'm sure someone will be along to confirm

Unfortunately S2 and all NA are different but I just made up a continuity tester and it is infact working, glad I didn't order the expensive one.

I haven't heard this before. I just unplugged mine when the idle started playing up.

I believe it’s the same part on a 440 turbo

I have a spare s2 engine loom and decided to replace the DME temp sensor plug on my loom which is broken.
O/e the plugs are all different quick release rather than prise off (both 1989) and the 993 (1994) different again.
While I was in there I chased out the injector wires and they all terminate at a common larger wire, red/ blue and grey. They must all fire at the same time, don't understand.

I saw this the other day and I thought 'I have some info on this as I tested the injector harness once' but it took me a while to find the info.
This was from Jon @ JMG Porsche:

Yes on the 944 models, other than the S2 3.0 944, all the injectors fire at once, but they are wired in as pairs and on the circuit board each pair have their own transistor that switches them.
So you will have to disconnect one of each pair to be able to test the wiring to each individual injector. So if you disconnect injector two and four, you will be able to test on pin14 the resistance of number 3 injector and its wiring, and on pin 15 you will able to test injector one.
Then plug two and four back in and disconnect injector one and three, and you will be able to test injector (and wiring) on pin14 for injector 4, and pin 15 for injector 2

Does that provide any clarification?

Not sure if the S2 is batch fire or sequential injection, either way they will have a common 12v supply and grounded to fire. The turbo certainly has two injector
circuits.

Does the S2 have a cam position sensor?
If it does then good chance it’s sequential

I seem to remeber reading about this when I was having some poor running issues on my S2 a few years ago.

Isn't the "hall sensor" on the from end of the cam doing this?

I recall being told that the injectiors fired sequentially, but if the hall sensor wend bad thay would all fire at the same time.

I certainly found my fuel consumption improved quite a bit when I fixed the dodgy wiring on mine!

If it’s not working the ignition timing gets retarded quite a lot too

Hall sensor is new when I replaced the broken valve spring and reset the cams. The misfire has gone for now.
Perhaps the loom I'm looking at is not an S2.
I just have a parasitic drain which I hopefully have resolved (o/s dipped beam) strange because it's redundant I'm using n/s wiring to trigger relays for the Morimoto headlight units. It was flowing about 200mA so I just pulled the fuse.
New n/s rear Gaz shock has started knocking so I've put the Konis back on until Gaz sort it.
Got the original factory alarm working, hope that wasn't a mistake.

I’m a day behind posting so this is ‘ what I did to my 944 yesterday’.
Having decided some weeks ago that the brake booster was to be refurbished, I made use of the house elf and his long thin fingers and decided it would be good experience for him to lie upside down in the passenger footwell and assist in the project by undoing the three bolts that hold the booster to the bulkhead. I did mention that he’s 6’4” didn’t I.
After much pfaffing, the blasted thing was feee and that was when I discovered that to get the thing out if the engine bay, the intake needs to come out Nowhere on any of the guides had I seen this mentioned.
Being the owner of several 2 wheeled vehicles, I have a collection of useful items for loading them and keeping them upright whilst they are taken from or to race tracks or workshops & I found myself in the fortunate position of being able to loan some of this gear to our very own Waylander to assist in the collection and transportation of his latest two wheeled project. Thus it was that when he came to collect said items, I was duly instructed in what needed to be done with the wise words of” just don’t drop the pintel caps down the inlet tract ot it’s engine out time
Fear set in ( actually the wife gave me a list of jobs to do but it doesn’t read as well does it?) and I put the job off for a couple of weeks until the next visit by Waylander to return the borrowed items when he went through the correct sequence once more.
With the house elf available to assist in getting at the engine bay - a two wheeled vehicle resides in front and requires moving each time I need to work in the engine bay I plucked up the courage - figuring I could always blame the errant youth if it went pointy things up, and decided it would be a good idea to get it all out as I have a long weekend booked and could make some decent progress. Being over cautious as ever, it probably took twice as long as it should but a good 3 hours later, I triumphantly gave Waylander a call to say that the intake and fuel rail were off and nothing had gone South- I’d even remembered to remove the blasted cause of all this anxiety -the brake booster, so that will be receiving some attention this weekend.
Thanks must go to Waylander once again for his patience and guidance as well as to the house elf without whom I would still be trying to get the bolts undone in the passenger footwell!

So that was yesterday.
Today, or more to the point this evening, has seen the fuel rail separated from the injectors and inlet and the throttle body also removed from the inlet. The injectors themselves remain steadfast in their refusal to budge but I may have a cunning plan for them and am also making a list of bits to order from my local OPC.

Progress at last even if it’s more bits coming off than going back on

Well it was Friday to be exact

Finally got around to curing the annoying rattling coming from my driver side door... found two penny washers loose in the bottom which I must have dropped when re-assembling the door and I'd forgotten to replace all the self-tapping screws that hold on the lock protection plate, so that was what had been rattling against the window slide! Lovely and quiet and a nice solid clunk now when shutting... just need to sort the passenger door rattle out now and free-up and lubricate the lock cylinders as they are completely seized (due to only ever using the remote central locking).